HOW TO BUILD AN AWESOME TRELLIS FENCE!

 

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Ahhh Spring…who doesn’t love it! It’s the season of new growth and a great time to get out into the garden and tackle some of those jobs that you’ve been putting off over the winter and with that in mind, it was time to get my hands dirty and build that Trellis Fence that has been begging to be built. You’ve heard of the Great Wall of China??…well this is going to be the Great Trellis Fence of Australia!! ????

 

 

The great thing about a Trellis or Lattice Fence is that they add another interesting visual concept to your garden at the same time offering you a level of privacy from your prying neighbours….let’s face it, who doesn’t love a spot of nude gardening from time to time ?

 

 

Unlike a lot of other Trellis fences that are simply screwed or nailed to an existing fence, l’ve decided to go for a freestanding version made from reclaimed hardwood ceiling joists and wire mesh supported by High Wind Post Brackets.

Here’s the end result! What do you think??

 

 

Pretty happy with how it turned out!

 

Why Go for a Freestanding Trellis Fence?

The reason for my decision to build my structure freestanding is that l don’t want it to be attached to anything. I don’t want vegetation climbing all over my house which can cause all sorts of problems and l don’t want my creeping vines to destroy the fence between myself and my neighbour. I’ve even gone the extra step of having my freestanding structure being supported by and sitting on Post Brackets rather than having the posts directly placed in the ground. The reason being that l don’t care what anybody says, whenever you place a wooden post in the ground, over time, it will rot and  that is something that l don’t want to deal with down the track. I also like the appeal of having the ability to place your trellis or lattice fence facing any direction you want which is handy in utilizing the sun to its full potential.

 

Building Materials You Will Need.

 

 

Please note that material quantities will vary depending on how high or long you want your trellis or lattice fence to be.

• Posts sourced from Reclaimed Hardwood (old ceiling joists) 100mm x 38mm ( 4 x 1 ½ )
• Wire Mesh: 2.0m x 1.2m ( 6.5 feet x 4 feet) per sheet. Square Size 100mm x 100mm ( 4 x 4 )
• Concrete: 2 bags per hole. 20kg per bag (44 pound)
• High Wind Post Brackets. 1 per post.
• Galvanised Coach Nuts and Bolts. 130mm x 10mm. 2 per post
• Reclaimed Fascia Board.
• Bracing Sticks.

Tools Required:

• Hammer
• Chisel
• Electric Planer. This is used to take off all the rough edges on the posts.
• Electric Sander. Great for giving the posts a smooth, non splintery finish.
• Nail Gun. If you don’t have a nail gun, don’t panic, an everyday hammer and nail will do the trick.
• Reciprocating saw. Not 100% necessary but incredibly handy and a massive time saver if you happen to strike any tree roots!
• Circular Saw.
• Compound Mitre Saw. A circular saw will suffice if you cant find a mitre saw
• Table Saw. A circular saw will suffice if you cant lay your hands on a table saw.
•  Combination square.
• Drill. Cordless or corded…doesn’t matter.
• Electric Planer
• 10mm Drill Bit.
• Adjustable Wrench.
• Spirit Level.
• String Line Level.
• Hammer.
• Square.
• Tape Measure.
• Staple Gun.
• Shovel.
• String Line.
• Pencil.
• Ladder.
• Ear Muffs.
• Safety Goggles.
• Sawhorses. Here’s a link to my Easy to Build Sawhorse Video. Check it Out!

Please note that all of these tools are available from my Recommended Tools and Resources Page.

Before digging into the Awesome Selection of Tools and Resources l know and trust, an important disclosure:

The majority of the links on my Tools and Resources Page are affiliate links which means that if you choose to make a purchase, l will earn a small…and l mean small, commission. This commission comes at no additional cost to you but it certainly helps to keep the lights on here over at DIY For Knuckleheads so that we can afford to keep producing great, informational content for You.

Please understand that l have experience with all of these companies and products, and l recommend them because they are helpful and useful, not because of the small commissions l make if you decide to buy something. Please do not spend any money on these products unless you feel you need them or that they will help you achieve your goals.

 

Let’s Get This Show on the Road:

Step 1:

Mark out the position of the posts and dig the holes for the concrete. The position of the holes will be determined by the length of your wire mesh.

Digging holes for the Post Brackets

 

As Murphy’s law States…Whenever, or wherever you did a hole in the back yard, you shall come across a great big Thumping tree root!!

 

The Makita Reciprocating Saw is a great tool for disposal of such tree roots. ?

 

Step 2:

Set up your string lines. The lines are used so that when positioning the Post Brackets, all you need to do is line the face and top of the bracket up to the string lines. This will ensure that the brackets are perfectly in line and level along the top.

Setting up the Building Hurdle for the string line.

 

Top of the post bracket Level with the top of the horizontal crossbar on the building hurdle.

 

Setting up the Building Hurdle for the top and bottom string lines

 

Plumb a line down from top to bottom so that the string lines line up.

 

Run Out the String Lines.

 

Pro Tip:

Tieing a string line tight can be a little tricky. Check out my Simple, How to Tie a String Line Video to find out how.

 

 

Step 3:

Mix the concrete and pour into the holes. Do one hole at a time, position the bracket and move onto the next hole to repeat the process. Make sure that you also plumb the Post Bracket from left to right.

 

Make sure that your bracket is plumb! Notice how the bracket is in line with the string lines? Set the post bracket up so that it is as close as possible to the string lines without actually touching them.

 

Pro Tip:

When doing a freestanding structure, make sure you do use a High Wind Post Bracket rather than a conventional Post Bracket or Stirrup that has a centre of the bracket support pole. The High Wind Bracket is a lot more stable and less prone to bending which makes it more suitable for a free standing Trellis Fence.

 

All the Post Brackets set up in concrete. Notice how the top of the bracket lines up to the top of the string line and the bottom of the brackets line up to the bottom string line.

Pro Tip:

Don’t make the concrete to wet as you want the Bracket to stand-up alone without it falling over once you position it.

 

 

Bonus Pro Tip:

Don’t use a Rapid Set type concrete to set in the post brackets if you can help it.. Use a traditional concrete mix that is thoroughly mixed prior to placing it in the hole. The reason for this is that you want the concrete to thoroughly coat and surround the bracket without any pockets of dry concrete. This can be a problem when using a Rapid Set type product.

Leave to dry for at least 24 HOURS!

 

Step 4:

While the concrete in the holes is drying, it’s a good time to prep the posts. Give the posts a good sand and if necessary, check out the bottoms of the post so they fit into the post brackets. Running an electric planer on the edge of the posts creates a nice little beveled edge and helps reduce splinters.

 

Cut reclaimed wood posts to size.

 

Checking out the post so that it fits in the post bracket.

 

Planing a small bevelled edge on the post with your electric planer looks good and reduces splinters.

 

Finish off the post prep by giving them a good sand with an electric sander.

Pro Tip:

To increase the longevity of posts, give the ends of the posts and the checkouts a good spray with a timber preservative.

 

Wood preservative products come in all different brands depending on your country of origin. Make sure you purchase one that is clear when sprayed or painted on and not coloured.

Step 5:

Place posts in post brackets and clamp together with a separating block placed between them…one on the bottom, one in the middle and one at the top. Screw the posts to the separating blocks so that you finish up with one post. Clamping all three tightly is recommended when screwing together.

 

Make sure you use exterior grade screws when screwing the posts together.

 

Step 6:

With the posts screwed together it’s time to plumb and straighten them. Start off by initially plumbing and straightening the posts on either end of the trellis or lattice fence. Place the posts in the brackets, using scrap timber as braces, plumb the posts in both directions with your spirit level and nail the braces to pegs banged into the ground.

 

Plumbing the posts.

 

Nail the braces to a peg banged in the ground.

 

Once the posts have been plumbed and braced, you can then go ahead and bolt the post to the bracket.

Drilling hole through post.

 

 

 

Tightening up the bolts.

 

On the face of the post, run a string line from one post to the other with one string line running close to the bottom of the post and one running close to the top of the post. Line up all the intermediate posts to these two string lines, plumb them from side and side and brace them off to pegs banged into the ground.

 

Setting up the string lines on the face of the two end posts. One string line up top and one on the bottom.

 

Setting up all the intermediate posts.

 

Pro Tip:

Get the posts fairly plumb before you line the posts up to the string line and brace off to a peg in the ground.

 

Step 7:

Using a line level, mark the tops of your posts and cut them to length with a circular saw.

 

Simply clip a Line Level to your string line.

 

Close up of a line level.

 

Marking the height of the fence posts to be cut off.

 

Cutting the posts to height.

Step 8:

I ripped down and screwed a couple of old lengths of Hardwood Fascia Board to the tops of the posts. This not only gave the structure a finished off look, it also tied the posts together. The rounded edge of the fascia board that l cut off was then nailed under the fascia board to make the piece look thicker than it actually is.

Lengths of old fascia board that l later ripped down to screw to the top of the posts.

 

The old fascia board is simply screwed to the top of the posts.

 

Step 9:

Grab yourself a hot cup of tea and admire your handywork…most of the hardwork is now done!

 

In case you’re interested in any of my Merchandise like the magnificent coffee cup above, you can check out my range of Awesome Product Here!

 

Step 10:

With you remaining reclaimed hardwood, using either your tablesaw or circular saw, cut the wood down the middle to create two new pieces which is a great way to save money. You will use these to create the frames for the wire mesh to be stapled to.

 

Ripping down the Ceiling Joists on the table saw.

Step 11:

Cut the strips of wood to size and attach to sides of the posts. These create the framework for the mesh. You may wish to only have one sheet of mesh per opening but for mine l wanted two separate frames of mesh per opening which just makes the framework a little more visually exciting to the eye.

Screwing frames to the trellis fence Posts.

 

The two seperate frames are attached together by two blocks that are screwed to each frame.

Pro Tip:

If you decide to go for the two frames, make the frame that goes underneath the top frame before you attach it to the posts. If you don’t, it can be a little tricky attaching the top of the frame to the side pieces.

Assembling the bottom frame before screwing to the trellis fence posts.

 

Step 12:

Before you get to excited and staple on the mesh, it’s a good idea to give the framework and posts a good couple of coats of Decking Oil, Paint or Stain…whatever takes your fancy. It’s a lot easier to do it as this stage than to do it after you’ve installed the mesh.

Applying a couple of coats of decking oil on the trellis fence

Pro Tip:

You’ll get the job done a lot faster using a combination of paint roller and paint brush. In regard to the roller, l get good results using a small foam paint roller.

 

Step 13:

Time to finish this project off folks!! All you need to do now is staple the mesh to the wooden frames using your Staple Gun ( link to staple gun). If you go for the two frame per set of posts like l did then you might have to cut a sheet in half. That way you get two bays from one sheet. I just simply cut the mesh with my angle grinder (link to grinder)but if you don’t have one of those then some bolt cutters would suffice.

Cutting the mesh to size.

 

Placing the Trellis Mesh into position.

 

Using a staple gun to attach the trellis mesh to the frame.

 

You can see how the staple holds the mesh to the frame. If you dont have a staple gun, you could just bend over some nails. It just might not look as neat.

 

Just a Couple of Extra Photos to Show You How It All Finished Up!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And that’s it Folks!! All you need to do now is select the type of climber you want and away you go! I hope you enjoyed and found this Blog Post useful. As per usual you can find me on all the Socials…just scroll to the bottom of the page for all those links.

 

Alrighty, be safe, and till next time, l’m outta here..Cheers! ??